Landscape restaurant at the Henry Jones Art Hotel: Sophistication and simplicity

What is it about an old pair of denim jeans that makes them so damn comfortable?

We’ve all got a pair or two like that. Moulded over time to match every curve, lump and bump of our respective anatomies. Whenever you’re in doubt, they’re always the ever-reliable ‘go to’ option!

The preparations for our European odyssey are in full swing, with both of us valiantly juggling a plethora of ‘to do’ lists, one of which has been the inevitable cleansing of the closet.

I don’t know how many pairs of old jeans I found in there…

Horrendously retro acid washed threads; thank you 1991. Classic bootcut Levis. Even some ridiculously wide flares, a 70s love child born two decades too late!

They may have looked a little out of time and place, but I can guarantee that (ignoring the extra 5kg of ‘muscle’ I seem to have since acquired) every single pair would have felt like a second skin.

Alas…there are only so many pairs you can stow before excess baggage starts to bite!


Let’s forget the jeans analogy now because Landscape restaurant is as close to denim as Chanel is to Shiploads.

You’ve read our gushing praise for the many exciting restaurants popping up all over Hobart of late. It’s almost like a Pokemon Go styled game of real life ‘whack-a-mole’ trying to visit them all!

Yet where foraged foam of fungus, deconstructed and hand-pressed artisanal heirloom possum pickles may be appealing to some, I suspect for many this may be a bridge too far.

As much as we love to test our palate on a regular basis, it IS actually possible to have too much of a good thing.

Take for example our annual pilgrimage to <insert SE Asian country here>. It doesn’t matter how rich the pho, how finger licking good the babi guling, or how silky smooth the Japanese cod sperm, without fail on our return to Hobart all we crave is a generous portion of eye fillet, grilled rare, and a glass of half-decent cabernet.

Where Picasso explored the bizarre and uncomfortably challenging, in his exquisite landscapes of the outback Glover presented a reality that has struck home for many an Australian. It is also this familiarity and consistence in excellence that underpins one of Hobart’s newest restaurants, Landscape.

The Henry Jones Art Hotel has established itself as one of the best in Hobart, offering a refined and sophisticated base from which tourists can launch themselves into Hobart’s increasingly cosmopolitan vibe, or where the business traveler can ensconce themselves in a cocoon of productive solitude, assured in the knowledge that staff DO know their name and druthers.

In Head Chef Oli Mellers, a Tassie lad who’s done his time in the European stainless steel jungle, we have a devotee of the asado grill and an appreciator of classic flavours that tug at the heart strings. Thankfully, his broad menu doesn’t require a pocket-sized Webster’s Hipster’s Dictionary either!

Dainty canoes of spanner crab, witlof and green apple ($25).

Spanner crab, witlof and green apple - Landscape

Spanner crab, witlof and green apple – Landscape

 
A generous portion of octopus carpaccio, thinly sliced almost to the point of translucence, with smoked almonds, olive oil and wood sorrel ($24).

Octopus carpaccio - Landscape

Octopus carpaccio – Landscape

 
From the asado grill (fueled by the sweet timbers of old sherry, bourbon and port casks) there is a range of cuts and sizes to suit all tastes, with most sourced from the lush meadows of Tasmania’s own Cape Grim in the far north-west of the State.

Asado grill - Landscape

Asado grill – Landscape

 
Rib eye, rump cap, eye fillet, scotch fillet…even a wagyu porterhouse!

The complimentary sauces were a surprise, with the pepperberry and cognac being a particularly good accompaniment to my eye fillet ($52).

And that charred baby gem lettuce…wow…it just goes to show that everything tastes better grilled!

Eye fillet with charred baby gem lettuce - Landscape

Eye fillet with charred baby gem lettuce – Landscape

 
Often when the grill is the focus dessert can be an afterthought.

It may be limited in range, but every single dish on the dessert menu was presented beautifully, letting the classic flavours shine through.

Strawberry and lemon meringue ($15).

Strawberry and lemon meringue - Landscape

Strawberry and lemon meringue – Landscape

 
Apple tarte tartin ($16).

Apple tarte tartin - Landscape

Apple tarte tartin – Landscape

 
It’s such a well-balanced and approachable menu (the carnivorously challenged aren’t forgotten!), and considering it was only the second night of service the level of quality they had already attained was astonishing.

The wine list is extensive and diners shouldn’t be afraid to ask for advice from the affable and knowledgeable wait staff.

Wine cellar - Landscape

Wine cellar – Landscape

 

Wine cellar - Landscape

Wine cellar – Landscape

To round out the experience the ambience of Landscape cannot be lauded enough.

With rare John Glover landscape prints adorning the convict-hewn sandstone walls, and clever lighting creating private islands of intimacy among the smoke blackened timber beams, Landscape is an immersive and memorable feast for all five senses.

Islands of intimacy - Landscape

Islands of intimacy – Landscape

 

Concluding thoughts on Landscape restaurant?

At its essence Landscape restaurant is a return to core values, providing discerning locals and travellers with classic ingredients of the utmost quality.

It’s uncomplicated and it’s satisfying, and sometimes that’s all you could ever need.

Landscape restaurant is located adjacent to the Henry Jones Art Hotel entrance, at 23 Hunter Street in Hobart’s wharf precinct.

Opening hours are from 6pm ’til late, 7 days per week.

For more information, drop by their website – Landscape

Score?

4.5

Landscape

Landscape

 

If it’s fine dining you’re looking for in Hobart, then you may also be interested in these amazing venues:

  • Aloft – Modern Australian with a pan-Pacific edge
  • Templo – Classic flavours of the Mediterranean presented with style and simplicity
  • The Glass House – Some of the best cocktails in Hobart, with small dishes that make your taste buds sing
  • Pearl + Co. – Innovative shared plates, in one of Hobart’s iconic locations on the waterfront
  • Osteria at Stefano Lubiana – Sublime Italian presented in one of Tasmania’s most iconic wineries
  • Franklin – Combining one world renowned chef together with the freshest Tasmania seafood
  • Frogmore Creek – Ground zero for Hobart’s culinary renaissance
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    Landscape Pinterest

     
    Landscape Menu, Reviews, Photos, Location and Info - Zomato